Double Smash Burgers

Method

1. 1

   Step 1

   Stir the mayonnaise, ketchup and mustard together in a small bowl until smooth. Set out the cheese, sliced onion and drained pickles so you can assemble the burgers immediately after cooking.

2. 2

   Step 2

   Divide the chilled beef into 8 equal portions, about 2 oz (56 g) each, to make 4 double burgers. Gently gather each portion into a loose ball without kneading or packing it tightly, then refrigerate until the pan is ready.

3. 3

   Step 3

   Heat a 12-inch (30 cm) cast-iron skillet or heavy flat griddle over medium heat for 2 minutes. Toast the buns cut-side down, in batches, for 1–2 minutes until golden, then transfer to plates and spread the cut sides with the sauce.

4. 4

   Step 4

   Wipe away any crumbs, brush the pan with the oil and increase the heat to high. Heat for 2–3 minutes until very hot and the oil just begins to smoke; switch on the extractor fan and keep a window open if needed.

5. 5

   Step 5

   Place 2 beef balls in the pan, leaving plenty of room between them. Immediately cover each with a small square of parchment paper and press firmly with a sturdy metal spatula or burger press for 8–10 seconds, making a patty about 4 inches (10 cm) wide and ¼ inch (6 mm) thick with thinner edges. Remove the paper and season with one-quarter of the salt and pepper, divided between the two patties.

6. 6

   Step 6

   Cook undisturbed for 1½–2 minutes, until the edges are deeply browned and lacy and the top is beginning to lose its raw appearance. Use a sharp-edged metal spatula to scrape firmly underneath each patty, keeping the browned crust attached, then flip.

7. 7

   Step 7

   Immediately top each patty with a slice of cheese and cook for 45–90 seconds, until the cheese softens and the beef reaches 160°F (71°C). Insert an instant-read thermometer horizontally through the side into the thickest part of each thin patty; extend cooking as necessary. Do not press the patties again after flipping, as this squeezes out their juices.

8. 8

   Step 8

   Stack the two cooked patties on a prepared bottom bun, add one-quarter of the onion and pickles, and cap with the bun top. Scrape loose browned debris from the pan and repeat with the remaining beef, seasoning and cheese in three more batches, reducing the heat slightly if residue starts to burn. Serve each burger as soon as it is assembled for the crispest edges and hottest cheese.